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The History of Beer Part 1 (Pilsner)

Why Do We Love Beer?

Beer comes in many forms. The reason you are reading this right now is likely because you love one of those forms of beer and you were trying to find a great place to have a pint! The reason why we come to love beer in its various forms is not something that I can adequately measure or explain, so, instead, I’d like to take some time to talk about the different styles of beer and how they came to be such a big part of our lives...or, at least, a big part of my life! I think it only makes sense to start with the style that people are most familiar with, even if the name doesn’t ring any bells.

PILSNER

I think that most people in Canada, or the United States, when they started drinking beer probably started with the likes of Coors Light, or Budwieser, or Labatt Blue, or Molson Canadian. I know, for me, it was Canadian and I didn’t think of it as a Lager, or a Pilsner, but just as “Beer”! I was happy to be drinking beer and didn’t care about the history or whether it was true to style, just whether it tasted good and had the desired effect.

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As it turns out, I’ve come to learn that while these mass produced lagers do, in fact, call themselves pilsners, they really are a style all of their own. A style that has come to be known as the “American Light Lager”. They have kept some of the basic principles of the pilsner style, the light colour, crisp flavour and smooth aftertaste, while not actually staying true to the style.

Let’s take a small history lesson, shall we?

The Pilsner style originated in Plzen, Czech Republic. In the mid-19th century, the majority of beers outside of Germany were ales. Ales are a bit easier to brew because they are fermented at room temperature and actually taste their best when at cellar temperature instead of ice cold. Lagers on the other hand, require a consistent cool temperature while fermenting and taste their best when cold.

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While ales are easier to brew, they are also more subject to infections from outside contaminants. In the 19th century, the effect of yeast on beer was certainly well known, but the sanitization and cleanliness of the modern era was just not possible. Many a batch of beer would be ruined by poor sanitization. This is what happened in 1842 in Plzen, Czech Republic. The city’s brewery had to dump an entire batch of beer into the gutter! OH THE HORROR! It had become infected with a wild yeast strain that soured the beer.

The brewmasters decided it was time to find a better way. They brought in some help from Germany to teach them about lagering. They used their local malt, called Plzen malt, and the Germans brought with them the lager yeast and a noble hop called Saaz. The results was something completely unique within the beer world of the day. A clear, crisp, light beer.

At the time, most beers had a darker colour and a malt forward flavour. Even the lagers of Germany was amber in colour and heavier in their flavour profile. The lightly kilned malt from Plzen fermented at colder temperatures in the cellars they built specifically for the purpose came out a light, golden colour. The Saaz hops gave the beer a wonderful aroma and just enough bite. Immediately, the brewers of Plzen knew they had something special.

It became the most copied style in the world. Some breweries changed the hops or the yeast profile, but the basic concept remained the same. A light, refreshing beer was taking over the world.

By the early 20th century, the style had been copied so much and become such a big hit that breweries in the United States couldn’t keep up with demand. Some, like Anheuser Busch, became concerned more with profit than quality. Exchanging some of the traditional Pilsen malt for the much cheaper rice. While rice allowed the beer to stay light and maintain the alcohol content, it thinned the beer and weakened the malt’s flavour. To compensate, the hop content was also reduced, making the current light lagers that dominate the landscape of the North American beer culture.

There are still some great examples of true Pilsners available to us today, including the original, Pilsner Urquell, which is still brewed with the original recipe from 1842. Many of North America’s craft breweries have taken it upon themselves to revive the true Pilsner, most famously in Canada by Steamwhistle.

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If you are a Canadian, Blue or Coors light fan, (or even just a fan of beer in general) the next time you are at the local LCBO, take a look through the craft beer section and give one of the imported Pilsners or a good Canadian craft Pilsner a try! You won’t be disappointed!


 
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